Perlas Islands, Panama
(Alameda)
The Perlas Islands - a remote cluster of tropical islands with lots of
anchorages - is just 40 miles from the Panama Canal on the Pacific side of
Panama. In our view, it's much nicer to be anchored off one of these sparsely-inhabited
islands than it is to be living aboard in a marina. The fact that your next
island destination in the Perlas is seldom more than 15 miles away makes
everything in the area a daytrip - sort of like in the British Virgins. And
even if you choose to ghost along in light winds watching the sea life, it's
still so close that you don't have to resort to the motor to get there. The
Perlas Islands have coconut-lined sandy beaches, colorful seashells, chattering
parrots, fresh seafood, and nightly breezes - making it a camelot for cruisers.
The most unique experience we had in this island group was at Isla San Jose in
the southern edge of the archipelago. There we met Dieter and Gerda, two
Germans who sailed to Isla San Jose 20 years ago aboard their 28-ft steel ketch
and set up camp. Unlike the typical retired couple in Central America, these
two septuagenarians are living off the land in the true sense of the word -
they have sheep, chickens, and wild hogs who feed on the fruit growing on trees
that Dieter has planted over the years with Gerda's help. The determined couple
work daily to keep the pamplemousse, oranges, lemons, papaya, mango,
breadfruit, kapok, coconuts and bananas healthy - and safe from the hungry
hogs, crocodiles, and other rapacious animals. They do all this while they live
in two small cabins with little more than a stove, propane refrigeration, and
an outhouse. They started all this while living aboard their small ketch, and
moved ashore when the vessel succumbed to the elements.
Dieter reprovisions about four times a year, venturing the 50 miles to Panama
City in his trusty mastless sailboat that's powered by a 25-hp outboard. He
arrives in Panama City with a shopping list written in German - which Gerda
wisely translates into Spanish, since Dieter speaks none of the native
language. Once the shopping is done, he loads on food, cement, batteries,
propane, and other essentials for the next few months. Oh yeah, and rum, too!
Dieter and Gerda have a wonderful tradition at their home - visitors are warmly
welcomed, provided with a tour of their farm, and graciously entertained on the
porch. The house specialty, de la paraiso, is a citrus-rum drink that makes it
easy to understand how someone could lose track of time on this 10-square-mile island.
Rum, however, is a precious commodity on the island, so it has become the
unofficial currency in Dieter and Gerda's corner of the world. If you arrive at
Isla San Jose, you'll probably be hailed on channel 16 within minutes and
invited up for a visit. But Dieter will almost certainly remind you - don't
forget the rum!
- les & diane 05/04/04