Changes, June 2004

Perlas Islands, Panama
(Alameda)

The Perlas Islands - a remote cluster of tropical islands with lots of anchorages - is just 40 miles from the Panama Canal on the Pacific side of Panama. In our view, it's much nicer to be anchored off one of these sparsely-inhabited islands than it is to be living aboard in a marina. The fact that your next island destination in the Perlas is seldom more than 15 miles away makes everything in the area a daytrip - sort of like in the British Virgins. And even if you choose to ghost along in light winds watching the sea life, it's still so close that you don't have to resort to the motor to get there. The Perlas Islands have coconut-lined sandy beaches, colorful seashells, chattering parrots, fresh seafood, and nightly breezes - making it a camelot for cruisers.

The most unique experience we had in this island group was at Isla San Jose in the southern edge of the archipelago. There we met Dieter and Gerda, two Germans who sailed to Isla San Jose 20 years ago aboard their 28-ft steel ketch and set up camp. Unlike the typical retired couple in Central America, these two septuagenarians are living off the land in the true sense of the word - they have sheep, chickens, and wild hogs who feed on the fruit growing on trees that Dieter has planted over the years with Gerda's help. The determined couple work daily to keep the pamplemousse, oranges, lemons, papaya, mango, breadfruit, kapok, coconuts and bananas healthy - and safe from the hungry hogs, crocodiles, and other rapacious animals. They do all this while they live in two small cabins with little more than a stove, propane refrigeration, and an outhouse. They started all this while living aboard their small ketch, and moved ashore when the vessel succumbed to the elements.

Dieter reprovisions about four times a year, venturing the 50 miles to Panama City in his trusty mastless sailboat that's powered by a 25-hp outboard. He arrives in Panama City with a shopping list written in German - which Gerda wisely translates into Spanish, since Dieter speaks none of the native language. Once the shopping is done, he loads on food, cement, batteries, propane, and other essentials for the next few months. Oh yeah, and rum, too!

Dieter and Gerda have a wonderful tradition at their home - visitors are warmly welcomed, provided with a tour of their farm, and graciously entertained on the porch. The house specialty, de la paraiso, is a citrus-rum drink that makes it easy to understand how someone could lose track of time on this 10-square-mile island. Rum, however, is a precious commodity on the island, so it has become the unofficial currency in Dieter and Gerda's corner of the world. If you arrive at Isla San Jose, you'll probably be hailed on channel 16 within minutes and invited up for a visit. But Dieter will almost certainly remind you - don't forget the rum!

- les & diane 05/04/04